HOW TO GET STARTED
A Beginner's Guide to Kart Racing

THE FIRST STEP: VISIT AN OVKA RACE
To get a taste of the kart racing world and determine if karting is right for you or your children, we recommend first visiting one of our race days as a spectator. The OVKA schedule can be found on our website and G&J Kartway is open to the public for all of our events.
As a spectator, take the time to watch the individual races at the track to get a sense of how the event is run. Then take time to walk the pits and paddock area, taking note of the types of karts and how they are prepared. Feel free to ask questions of any available club members, who will be happy to help you learn about more about what to expect on race days and how to take on the challenge of starting out in go-kart racing.
WHERE DO YOU FIT IN
Karting is a family sport with options for all ages to get racing on track. Children can begin as young as 5 years-old while some racers continue competing well into their 70’s. With interest and participation across such a broad spectrum, a standard set of age divisions has developed, which splits the participants into different classes.
CLASSES AND AGE GROUPS
In kart racing, the term “Classes” refers to these different divisions available for racers to participate in. Classes are defined both by age group and an engine type or make, so that participants are always competing against rivals with similar equipment and within appropriate age groups. On race days, each class will have its own dedicated set of warm-up times and races, where only members of their own class are on track at any time. Classes only compete against themselves and only score points within their own championship.
Classes can vary in size depending on the popularity of their specific engine package, and as you first begin exploring your options in karting, you will want to find members of your prospective classes when you visit the track and ask them questions regarding their specifics:
- How much is the engine used in this class new vs used?
- What kind of maintenance do you have to perform on it?
- How many participants on average show up for your class every week?
- How many do you expect in the future?
Each Class has a specific age limit, a set of acceptable engine rules and restrictions, and a minimum weight requirement for the combined kart & driver together to ensure a fair playing field. Popular Class formats are set by the World Karting Association (WKA) and the rules for each are generally consistent across most karting clubs and tracks around the country, with perhaps only small differences between them in minimum weight requirements or accepted tire brands. The OVKA offers the following popular classes across these standard age divisions:

5-8 years old
KID KARTS - These karts use smaller chassis appropriately sized for children (770-850 mm wheelbase). The focus of Kid Kart racing is to develop the driving skills, race craft, and driving awareness senses of these young participants. The most popular engine for several decades has been the Comer C51/C52 engine, a small (50cc) 2-cycle engine similar to what you’ll find on a chainsaw or weed-whacker.
In recent years the 4-cycle Briggs & Stratton 206 engine, equipped with a specific Kid Kart restrictor, has gained some popularity in the United States as an alternative option. The OVKA accepts both engines in our Kid Kart divisions. Top speeds for Kid Karts can vary but are generally around 30-35 mph.
Both of these engine options are considered low maintenance and effective for bringing Kid Kart aged drivers up to speed, and there is widespread availability of used karts and components in the secondhand market as young karters age up into the Sportsman age bracket.
OVKA Kid Kart Classes:
Comer Kid Karts
Comer C51 or C52 engine
150 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)
206 Kid Karts
Briggs & Stratton 206 with 0.310” Kid Kart Restrictor Slide
200 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)

7-12 years old
SPORTSMAN / CADET – This age division utilizes an intermediate “Cadet” sized kart chassis (900-1010 mm wheelbase), sized between a Kid Kart and full Adult sized frames. The two classes available in the Sportsman age group at OVKA are the 4-stroke Briggs & Stratton LO206 Sportsman class and the IAME 60cc 2-stroke Mini Swift class.
Since its widespread adoption in the 2010’s, the Briggs & Stratton LO206 (colloquially called the “Briggs 206” or just “206”) has become perhaps the most widely used 4-cycle engine in karting due to its affordable entry price, good reliability, and ease of use. Broad restrictions on the ability of racers to modify the internal components of these engines has led to relatively good parity in the 206 classes, meaning close racing where a good driver can make a big difference.
The same 206 engine, equipped with different swappable power restrictors, can be used in every available age division in kart racing. In the Sportsman class at OVKA, the 0.490” Green restrictor slide is used. This is generally considered to be the most preferable class for introducing new kids at this age to the karting world.
Alternatively, the IAME Mini Swift class provides a higher-performance engine option in this age bracket. While the IAME-built 60cc 2-stroke engine package starts at a higher price point than the Briggs 206, the higher kart speeds here can reach 50 mph. While 2-stroke engines generally come with high costs and more maintenance requirements to remain competitive, the higher performance is often attractive to competitors after developing their basic skills.
OVKA Sportsman Classes:
Briggs 206 Sportsman
Briggs & Stratton 206 with 0.490” Green Restrictor Slide
260 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)
IAME Mini Swift
IAME Swift 60cc
245 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)

12-15 years old
Juniors - The Junior classes offer increased speeds and are often some of the most well-attended and highly competitive classes at any karting club. At this age, adult-sized chassis (1045 mm wheelbase) are used in all classes. The two classes available in the Junior age group at OVKA are the 4-stroke Briggs & Stratton LO206 Jr class and the 100cc Jr class for 2-stroke engines.
As with its Sportsman iteration above, the Briggs & Stratton LO206 is here used with a restrictor slide. For the 206 Junior class the 0.570” sized “Yellow” restrictor is mandated. Driving technique for this age bracket can be honed and perfected well in this class, where carrying speed and executing passes tactfully and cleanly is crucial with these tightly controlled motors. The popularity of the 206 engine has all but guaranteed well-attended grids for this class at OVKA and every club where it has been offered.
On the 2-cycle side, the IAME KA100 is the primary engine used in the 100cc Junior class. Initially introduced in the United States for the 2017 season, the KA100 quickly supplanted the older, pre-existing 100cc 2-cycle engine classes due to its relatively lower maintenance requirements and higher available power. Equipped with a 22mm exhaust restrictor for Juniors, speeds in this class can reach 55-60 mph. The KA100 has a higher operating cost to buy into and maintain than the 206 option in this age bracket, but it comes with a marked performance step-up for young drivers looking to build and test their skills at this age.
Also available to run alongside the KA100 in the 100cc Junior class is the venerable Yamaha KT100 engine. The Yamaha’s position as the de facto 100cc 2-cycle engine for four decades prior to the introduction of the KA100 means that many units are widely available for purchase in the secondhand market. This engine has been given a weight break to make up for its power deficit to the KA100, and while you may find that it can act as an affordable stepping-stone into a competitive class, its power deficit against the KA100 will be noticeable.
OVKA Junior Classes:
Briggs 206 Junior
Briggs & Stratton 206 with 0.570” Yellow Restrictor Slide
320 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)
100cc Junior
IAME KA100 with 22mm Jr Restrictor
320 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver) or;
Yamaha KT100 with SR-Y Pipe
300 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)

15 years and older
Seniors – Senior classes start at 15 years old and do not have an upper age limit. The chassis used are full-sized adult frames and engines at this level run at their least-restricted level, where speeds for the fastest karts push past 60 mph. The two available Senior classes at OVKA are 206 Senior and 100cc Senior.
The Briggs 206 Senior option here is the most affordable way to have fun in a competitive adult karting league. The 206 package has proven itself as a reliable, cost-effective, and low maintenance formula that rewards great driving while providing a broad base for grassroots karting. In 206 Sr the engines run with the standard Adult (Black) slide. The continued runaway popularity of this class across the country will ensure healthy participation at any OVKA or other event you attend.
The 100cc Senior class offers the option to run an unrestricted KA100 engine, with 22+ hp available from the factory, or the comparable Vortex ROK VLR 2-cycle engine. The ROK VLR package offers a slightly more affordable buy-in price option to the KA100 and can be run competitively in the same class. Introduced in the US in 2018, it has seen success as an alternative to the KA100 at nationals-level events.
OVKA Senior Classes:
Briggs 206 Senior
Briggs & Stratton 206 with Adult slide (Black)
370 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)
100cc Senior
IAME KA100
370 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver) or;
Vortex ROK VLR
370 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)

35 years and older, or 200lb+ Drivers (w/ permission)
Masters/Heavy – Masters classes offer our competitors the same engine performance as seniors, but in a division separate from their younger peers. While on-track competition is still fierce, masters classes can provide an overall more laid-back atmosphere for their participants away from the “intensity” of the teenaged drivers in the Senior field.
Masters also sees increased minimum weight requirements for both classes, which is attractive for drivers of larger build. Senior-aged drivers who weigh over 200 lbs alone can also be approved into the masters classes early rather than run at a performance disadvantage in Seniors, where excess weight can be a significant hinderance to performance.
As with all age groups, Briggs 206 continues to be popular in this age bracket, and both KA100 and ROK VLR are again accepted in 100cc Masters, alongside the grandfathered-in Yamaha KT100.
OVKA Masters Classes:
Briggs 206 Masters
Briggs & Stratton 206 with Adult slide (Black)
390 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)
100cc Masters
IAME KA100
390 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver) or;
ROK VLR
390 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver) or;
Yamaha KT100 with SR-Y Pipe
390 lbs minimum weight (kart+driver)

2-CYCLE vs 4-CYCLE ENGINES
Understanding what to expect the relative levels of maintenance to be in each class will be key in making your decision. 4-cycle engines (like the popular Briggs & Stratton 206) will require an oil change (roughly 14 oz) probably every race weekend to remain competitive and keep the engine running well. Cleaning the air filter and carburetor every few hours of running is also good practice for maintaining the engine. However, the engine is capable of doing a full season before a “refresh” of the top end, and will go several seasons before needing a full rebuild.
2-cycle classes (like the Comer Kid Kart, IAME Mini Swift, KA100 and VLR) require you to mix oil in with your fuel before filling up, to keep your engine lubricated. You will also see major gains in power from getting your engine “blueprinted” or rebuilt by an engine builder and common rebuild intervals on the 2-cycle engines are much more frequent (potentially twice in a season) for the top runners even in club level racing. The 2-cycle engines will also need their air filters cleaned regularly, and the carburetors rebuilt a couple of times a season.

READ THE RULES
Download the OVKA rulebook on our website (OVKA.com) and familiarize yourself with what is allowed, and not allowed, when racing with the club. Before purchasing your kart, you’ll want to make sure that the chassis, bodywork, tires, and engine all meet the requirements laid out in this season’s rules document. You will also want to go through the Pre-Tech Safety Checklist (also copied here in Appendix B) to make sure that all of the proper safety items are either installed on your kart or are able to be installed before practicing or race day. You may suffer disqualification for an overlooked noncompliant component if you are not familiar with the technical regulations.
You will also want to familiarize yourself with the race day procedures, on-track etiquette, and driver conduct expectations that are described in the rules. Un-sportsmanlike driving conduct will NOT be tolerated and can result in removal from the track or expulsion from the club.

UNDERSTAND YOUR BUDGET
As with any sport or hobby, karting can get expensive very quickly. To find success and avoid any surprises, its useful to take stock of both the one-time costs and running costs for karting before jumping into a full season championship with an engine you’re unfamiliar with. The big one-time costs such as the kart and engine will be at the forefront of your mind, but don’t forget that fuel, oil, tires, and even brakes and chains are consumables that will have a long-term running cost, depending on how often you race.
Spare parts, tools, and support equipment for race day should also not be overlooked when planning your spending, as well as the required safety equipment such as your helmet and driving gear.
Used karts are often available within the karting community, and you may see some for sale when you visit the track. Online communities, such as Facebook Marketplace and other Karting Classifieds groups will have a large assortment of used equipment available at any time.
Some general pricing guidelines for what to expect for karts and engines is shown below:
"Ready-to-Race" Complete Karts |
||
|
New |
Used |
Kid Kart |
$2400-3000 |
$1000-1900 |
206 Sportsman |
$3700-4500 |
$1000-2500 |
Mini Swift |
$4500-6000 |
$2000-3000 |
206 Jr/Sr/Masters |
$3700-4500 |
$1000-3000 |
100cc Jr/Sr/Masters |
$5500-7500 |
$1500-5000 |
Standalone Engines |
||
Comer C52 Kid Kart |
$1,050 |
$300-1000 |
Briggs & Stratton 206 |
$800 |
$400-600 |
IAME Mini Swift |
$1,995 |
$1000-1500 |
IAME KA100 |
$2,395 |
$1800-2000 |
Vortex ROK VLR |
$2,200 |
$1500-1800 |
|
|
|
206 Engine Rebuild |
$200-300 |
|
Mini Swift Engine Rebuild |
$600-1000 |
|
KA100 Engine Rebuild |
$700-1100 |
|
"Roller" Chassis (no engine) |
||
Kid Kart |
$3,000 |
$400-1000 |
Cadet |
$3,500 |
$600-1500 |
Adult |
$3500-5500 |
$1000-3500 |

PURCHASING A KART
New members in the world of karting should always consider purchasing used equipment to get started. While not strictly necessary, it will always take time for a new racer to get to the point where they can make the “best use” of brand new equipment. Developing the “feel” for driving and learning the basics takes time and practice, and a driver without a frame of reference will need to build confidence and experience before they can tell the difference between and “old” kart and a brand new chassis.
Since go-karts lack movable suspension, the majority of the movement the vehicle experiences while traversing bumps and negotiating corners is due to the chassis or frame flexing beneath the driver. Over time, a chassis will get “flexed out” as the metal is over-worked and will no longer handle in the corners as well as it was designed to. While a well-seasoned driver will be able to feel the difference between a new chassis and one that’s been used for several racing seasons, a new driver has much more to learn and experience before that potential performance deficit becomes a major hinderance.
Pay attention to what brands of kart are popular at the tracks and clubs you’re going to be racing at. Chances are that other racers have gravitated toward those specific brands because they work well at the track, or because there are nearby networks of dealers and shops that carry parts for them.
Also pay attention to frame tube sizing when looking at karts. Frames for Sportsman karts and up can come in 28mm, 30mm and 32mm tube sizes (and blends of them), with smaller tubes working better for lower weight and horsepower classes and larger tubes for higher horsepower karts.
Notes: No points classes at OVKA currently run formulas for chassis with front brakes (Shifter Kart Chassis). All classes are rear-brake ONLY.
You may see kart chassis for sale that are LTO (Left Turn Only). These are made specifically for speedway/oval racing and will not handle properly on a sprint karting road circuit like G&J Kartway.
THE BRANDS
Karting brands and manufacturers can be a bit confusing to remember. The majority of the popular Sprint Karting chassis manufacturers are based in Europe and most manufacturers have a number of “sub-brands” that all come from the same factory and share the same parts. In the same way that General Motors may produce and sell cars under the Chevrolet, Buick, and GMC brand names, which share a pool of common parts under the hood, the OTK Group produces TonyKart, EOS, Kosmic, and Redspeed karts, which are functionally identical except for the color of the paint, which also share interchangeable parts. A list of the current major manufacturers is listed here, for your reference when looking at used models:
OTK Kart Group (Italy) - TonyKart, EOS, Kosmic Kart, Redspeed, Gillard, Exprit.
BirelART (Italy) - Birel, Ricciardo, Charles Leclerc, Kubica, CompKart, Swiss Hutless
Tinini Group (Italy) - CRG, GP, DR Kart, LH Kart, Evokart
IPK (Italy) - Praga, Formula K, OK1, RS Kart, ItalKart
SodiKart (France) - Sodi, Alpha
Parolin (Italy) - Parolin, Merlin, Vemme, Energy, TopKart
Breda (Italy) - Kart Republic, Fernando Alonso Kart, Will Power
Emme Racing SAS (Italy) - Mad Croc, Race Factory, Drago, Magik Kart , AK USA
TBKart (USA)- TBKart, GFC, Trackmagic, Jacques Villeneuve
Drew Price Engineering (Australia)- Arrow, Sera, Monaco
Margay (USA)
Haase (Italy)
MGM (USA)
Factory Kart (USA)
Coyote (USA)
Comet (USA) Eagle
INSPECTING A USED KART
Always inspect a kart in person before buying. While photos are useful to gather information, getting hands on the kart to check the details is always worth the extra effort. When inspecting a kart for purchase, a few things to pay attention to are:
How old is the chassis? If its only a couple years old, spare parts will be easy to find. If the chassis is a decade or more old, spare components may be hard to come by, even from the manufacturer.
Is the chassis straight? Or has it been in a bad accident and been bent beyond repair? Small tweaks are fixable, large deformations of the main chassis are not.
Always check the bottom of the frame rails. Excessive curb-hopping will grind the bottom of the rails, altering the chassis performance. While some scraping is inevitable, if the tubes feel like a “D” when you put your fingers on them, the chassis may be overly worn.
Check the welds. Cracks in the frame welds will dramatically alter the kart’s performance. While these can sometimes be fixed, they should not be raced on.
Does the kart look well maintained? Cleanliness and attention to detail generally means that the previous owner took good care of the kart. A kart with excessive oil, dirt, or tape on it may be hiding cracks and scrapes that would otherwise stand out.
Does the owner have extra spare parts to sell you, or are spare parts readily available? Some less popular brands, especially ones produced overseas, can be difficult and overly pricey to maintain if the manufacturer doesn’t have a US dealer network.
If it comes with an engine, does it start? Does it idle well? How many hours on it since a rebuild, and who was it by? Is it still legal to run in competition?
Does it have tires? What brand and how old? Are they useable for practice?
Does it come with a working Data Logger? (Commonly called a “tach”, short for tachometer, or by their brand names like “MyChron” or “Alfano”) A data logger is indispensable in modern kart racing for keeping track of your lap times, engine RPM, and exhaust/head temperatures that are used to tune the kart’s performance.
Does the owner have setup sheets or data that they’re willing to give you? Can they help put a good starting setup on it for you? Are they willing to come to the track and help you? A good baseline setup can help you build confidence on track quickly.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES
Once you’ve purchased a kart, you should familiarize yourself with the common operations for working on it. Try practicing removing and installing the engine, changing rear gear/sprocket ratios, and adjusting the alignment, to familiarize yourself with the mechanics, and also to figure out where your home toolset may be lacking in specific tools. Some extra equipment you’ll need for operating smoothly at the track may also include things like:
Tools –
- metric hex wrenches
- metric sockets & wrenches
- spark plug socket
- torque wrench
- a soft blow hammer
- basic screwdriver set
- snips, side cutters, and pliers
- drill or small electric impact
Air Pressure- small air compressor or 5 gallon air tank as well as karting tire pressure gauge
A Range of gears/sprockets - Ask for help from club members on getting sprockets in the range used at the track, and start on something in the middle of the range
Fuel jug and funnel – a fuel-rated jug, plus a measuring device if you’ll need to mix 2-stroke oils
Kart stand with wheels – Electric automatic stands are available as well as standard fixed ones
Pop-up canopy for shade (or to keep dry) – as well as proper equipment to tie it down or anchor it to the ground while you’re away from the pit
Fire extinguisher and first aid kit – Each club member is required by the rules to keep a small fire extinguisher in their pit or trailer for emergencies
Spare Parts – commonly used spare parts are tie-rods, steering column, axle, and chain
Spare Wheels and Tires - one set with practice tires mounted, and the other set with race tires mounted.
Notebook/Binder – Take time to print out the club rules, kart manufacturer setup guides and datasheets on components, keep detailed notes on how you change the kart setup as you practice and how it feels to you.
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Some of the most important equipment you will purchase for karting will be the required safety devices. Some of these items have different requirements for children and adults. Aways purchase name brand equipment from reputable sources and check the tags for the required ratings.
Helmet – Helmets must have current SNELL or SFI ratings. Tinted visors are legal for daytime races but clear or amber visors are required for OVKA night races. New Karters must place an “X” in tape on the back of their helmets for their first three race days to let other drivers know they are new.
Race Suit - Drivers are required to wear either a full-length racing suit or a jacket constructed from an abrasion-resistant material. If wearing a jacket, full-length pants must be worn. Karting racing suits are typically more affordable than those for full-sized cars, as they do not have multi-layer flame-retardant Nomex linings.
Rib & Chest Protector – A chest protector and a rib vest are mandatory for drivers in the Kid Kart, Sportsman and Junior classes. The requirement is an SFI 20.1 rating. For Seniors and Masters classes, a rib protector is highly recommended.
Gloves - Either kart racing gloves, or motorcycle road racing gloves.
Neck protection - a "neck roll" or "neck collar" is required for all OVKA racers. There are several styles to choose from at most karting supply distributors.

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE
Kart racing at this level is much different than you may have experienced at casual rental-kart tracks on vacation or in your hometown. Speeds at this level are much higher and the circuit is much more open than you may have experienced before. It is imperative that you familiarize yourself with your new vehicle and the track itself, before simply jumping into a race event, for your safety and the safety of your new club-members and competitors. Begin by watching onboard videos from G&J Kartway, paying attention to the racing line.
Take the time to set your new kart up for your own comfort, by adjusting the seat, steering wheel, and pedals to fit your stature so that you do not have to overly reach for the throttle or brake, and can turn the wheel with natural motion. Go through every bolt and connection on your new kart and double check that they are secured and retained. You will not build confidence as a driver if you have a mechanical incident at your first day on track.
Find a time to visit the track when there is not a scheduled event (visit G&J Kartway.com for the full track schedule). If you can, plan to meet an existing member or group at the track for help and guidance. Starting with a good standard kart setup, including tire pressures and gearing, can go a long way toward helping build confidence in the driver.
Begin by walking the track configuration you are about to drive, when no one else is driving on the track. Standard etiquette is to always practice the track configuration of the next upcoming race. Pay attention to where the racing line is (where the darkest areas of rubber are worked into the asphalt) and where black tire marks are built up on the curbs in the corners. These are the places you are going to want to position your kart when you start learning the fastest way around the circuit. Also pay attention to where its clear that other drivers have gone OFF the track, and left skid marks, scrapes, and dirt patches. These are the areas that are common for mistakes.
When you are ready, try taking your first laps with an empty of track, if possible, to give yourself plenty of room and space to make mistakes. Always raise your hand high above your head when entering and exiting the track to give proper notice to other drivers, and never enter the track without stopping and looking for oncoming karts.
Focus on building a smooth driving style, without harsh or abrupt inputs to the steering wheel or pedals. Pay attention to placing your kart on the racing line in the corners, where you observed on your track walk, and holding a consistent line on the straights, without weaving. Work in intervals of 5-10 laps at a time to avoid over-tiring yourself quickly. Do not forget to top off your fuel tank, oil your chain, and check your lug nut torques periodically as you run laps.
As you build speed, focus on doing longer runs, and extending the periods of time on-throttle before the corners. Your ultimate goal is to spend almost no time “coasting” into and through corners and instead either be on-throttle, accelerating toward them, and then quickly braking for them. Try to build confidence and consistency such that you can run a full race length (8-10 laps) with every lap being within a 1 second window of each other, with no major mistakes. Then try narrowing that window further. This will take many sessions, or days, at the track. But building consistency is key to running safely when other karts are on track with you.

RACE DAY SCHEDULE
When you have turned enough practice laps to feel confident in yourself and your kart, its time to join in for a race day. Here is what to expect when you arrive, and how an OVKA event plays out:
7:00am – Gates Open: Gates to the track open, visit the entrance building on your way in to sign-in and purchase a Pit Pass Wristband. Find an open pit spot, either in the Free Pit Spots, or your own if you’ve reserved and paid for one.
Begin unpacking and setting up your pit area.
7:30am – Registration & Pre-Tech Opens: Visit the Scoring Tower to Register for your class, and rent a Timing & Scoring Transponder (if needed) and purchase fuel (if needed). You will be given Pre-Tech form to complete and return to complete registration. If this is your first race with OVKA, you will need a member of the Tech Team (Tech Director or Race Director) to inspect your kart and sign-off on your tech form that the appropriate safeties are in place.
Pick-up your fuel and transponder, and prepare your kart for Warm-Ups.
9:00am – Class Warm-Ups: Each class will be given two 5-minute warm-up sessions. These go by very quickly, so be sure to have all of your equipment ready and be on the grid early for when your class is called. Give yourself room by starting at the rear of your field. Small classes of similar speed may be combined.
The order of warm-ups will be posted on the board at the head of the grid. Each class will go in-turn and then the cycle will repeat for the second session. Be cautious on the track on cool mornings and focus on turning solid laps with other karts around you. Try to follow other racers in your class and learn from their racing lines.
Take time to make notes after each session on your kart’s setup, how it felt on track, and any changes made.
You must turn laps in at least one warm-up session to compete in the races.
11:00am – Drivers Meeting: A Mandatory drivers meeting will take place on the grid before racing starts. Here, the Race Director will go over the rules and procedures for the day and give any notes they may have for the Drivers. Minor drivers MUST have a parent present at the Drivers Meeting. Make sure to pay attention to the instructions given, especially the procedures for entering and exiting the track.
You will then be released to take your kart through painting, where Tech will mark each controlled component for the day. Anything painted cannot be replaced for the remainder of the event without approval from the Tech Director.
11:30am – Races Start: Competitive sessions will now begin. These can take a number of different forms at OVKA, which are explained in the following section.
Note: Times always subject to change due to weather or track condition. For OVKA Night Race events, all times are shifted forward accordingly from Gate Opening time.
OVKA RACE FORMATS
Each race begins by lining up on the grid in your given position. (New Karters will be required to start at the rear of the field for their first THREE race EVENTS). When the command is given, the class will pull off the grid and proceed to the track, where they will remain lined-up in order for a pace lap on the pace-oval at G&J Kartway. Classes will be given the green flag if the Head Flagger approves of the lineup and pace, otherwise they will be sent for additional pace laps.
The first racing lap when given the Green Flag at G&J Kartway uses the cut-through from Turn 1 to the back straightaway to allow adequate space for the field to fall into line. All other racing laps use the configurations as shown.
Pea-Pick (Winner Take all): In this format, there will be three races for each class. The first race will have its starting grid set by a random draw. The order will be posted on the board at the head of the grid before racing starts. Be sure to arrive at the grid with plenty of time to get ready before your race.
The second race will start with the starting grid for the first race inverted, (with new karters still at the tail-end). The average finishes for the first and second race will then be computed, and the Final race will be set with the best average finisher from the first two races starting first, and progressively down the field from there. The finishing order of the final will determine how points are paid out for the day.
Race lengths at G&J Kartway in this format are typically 8-10 lap Heat Races and a 10-12 lap Final.
Qualifying Format: In the qualifying format, the first session after the drivers meeting will be a 5-minute session very similar to warm-ups, where all drivers will be allowed to freely run hot laps. The fastest single lap from each driver will be used to set the field for the first race. The finishing order of the first race will then set the field for the Final. The finishing order of the final will determine how points are paid out for the day.
Race lengths at G&J Kartway in this format are typically 8-10 lap Heat Races and a 10-12 lap Final.
Qualifying + Extended Final: This format proceeds exactly like the qualifying format above, but with no heat race and a single, longer Feature Race.
Race lengths at G&J Kartway in this format are typically a 15-20 lap Final.
Champ Race Special Format: The OVKA Memorial Champ race is a special 2-day event held each summer. The race format for the Champ Race features standard warm-up sessions on Saturday, followed by a special qualifying session where each driver is given only 2 laps to set a fast time. On Sunday, drivers are offered an optional warm-up session, followed by a Heat race with sets the grid for the Feature. Top finishers in the Feature receive trophies/plaques at this race.
Race lengths at G&J Kartway in this format are typically a 10-12 lap Heat and a 15-20 lap Final.
POST RACE MAINTENANCE
After a race day, always take the time to go through your kart to check for loose hardware and unseen damage. Take the time to clean and lubricate the needed components, and perform the routine maintenance recommended by your engine manufacturer. Keep a notebook of your laptimes, results, and how the kart responded to changes you made on race day. These records will be useful as you attend more races and improve your driving and race-craft and begin looking to find more and more competitive laptimes through optimal kart setup.